Cycling Along the Loire
Friday 26th August 2016
Blois to Tours
Breakfast at the Hotel Pavillon was truly abysmal. No cereal, cheese, meat,
yoghurt, fruit… What we got for our 6.5 euros was one croissant and some chunks
of baguette, plus butter and jam. And coffee. No plates either, just a bit of
paper so they wouldn’t have more washing up to do. Rubbish.
On leaving Blois we cycled through loads of midge-sized flies which fortunately
weren’t on the hunt for human blood today… or maybe they thought we didn’t look
as if we had any left. They bounced off our bodies as we rode along, a gentle
hosing down with midgoids, many of which glued themselves to our
sun-cream-plastered arms, faces and legs. Not an appealing look, probably.
Blue skies over Cande sur Beuvron |
Without the reinforcement of a proper breakfast I felt a bit weakened and after
seven or so miles took the opportunity to pull in to a Boulangerie and get a
cheesey-bake thing, a packet of lemon tartlets and a bottle of orange juice.
I felt a bit better after that.
Once again it was a hot day – Andrew said that according to the news (on the
internet) there had been an ‘Amber Alert’ in the region yesterday, with people
warned not to do any strenuous activity. For a lot of the route we had some
shade from trees today, however, so felt a bit less battered and knackered by
the end.
We had lunch at Amboise, an attractive town with a large chateau, bridge and
interesting, narrow streets. There were lots of bars and street cafes open,
catering for the masses of tourists who were there, clicking away with their
Nikons.
Amboise |
The Café |
A patron of the Café Bigot |
We dined outside at an establishment called ‘Bigot’ so I had to take a suitable
photo of Andrew holding the menu in front of him, with ‘Bigot’ printed in bold
letters – well it amused me.
The cheese omelette when it arrived was very poor, with no frites or salad – I
could have made a better job of it myself. I had a lemonade with it and water
from the carafe and had already finished the orange juice I’d bought at the
boulangerie earlier. We topped up with an ice-cream each and I bought an extra
bottle of water to take with me.
The route occasionally left the main road, a ‘D’ road along which the cars went
quite fast, but we noticed that this was at the expense of distance (it looped
away and then came back again) and height, generally involving a climb away from
the road whose course remained close to the river. Consequently we took to
making our own route here and there, keeping it low and direct, aided by the
GPS and a bit of native inspiration.
Tours |
At length we made it to Tours and on entering the city where should we find
ourselves, purely by chance, but outside the Hotel Mirabeau, the hotel I had
stayed at last year on my ride to the Mediterranean. Last year though I felt
that they had ripped me off so we passed them by today and went to the next one
along, the Hotel Criden. It was very nice and the receptionist was an English
girl who showed us where we could safely stow the bikes in the underground car
park.
La Rue Colbert |
Time to imbibe the ambience |
We strolled into the city centre in the evening and dined at a pasta cafe called
‘Étape de Patés’ in the main eating and drinking thoroughfare, the Rue Colbert.
Vegetarian pasta was quite nice and came with a dessert of tiramisu and a drink
of Hoegarden all for €11.
Average speed: 8.7 mph
Miles today: 42.8
Total miles: 222
Tours elevation: 170 ft
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